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Cool Tools: The Basics

New twists on old standards

For want of a nail, the kingdom was lost. Now, if you've ever experienced the automotive equivalent of this old saw (or wrench, if you prefer), then you know that for want of the right tool, a repair job can turn into a pain in the knuckles.

Necessities

To prevent you from having to learn this lesson from experience, here are some good examples of necessary service tools that every do-it-yourselfer ought to have. They are easy to acquire, relatively inexpensive, models of efficiency, simplicity, and versatility. And they'll save you time, money, aggravation, and possible physical harm, when used properly.

The Fab Five

The purpose here is to acquaint you with the tools themselves (or at least their type), and the general applications for their use. Always read and follow the manufacturer's instructions that come with each tool. Although basic tool sets include some varieties of pliers, screwdrivers, hammers, and wrenches, they probably won't include the items we are featuring here. So, without any further ado, here they are:

THRU-HANDLE-SHANK SCREWDRIVER: Many of us may remember the stern lecture we received from our mechanical mentor when we attempted to strike a screwdriver with a hammer. As warned, damage could indeed be done to the screwdriver handle if we continued. Well, with this baby, you can actually strike the end—at least moderately, anyway (a screwdriver is still not a chisel, remember?).

Why would you want to do that? This technique will help with removal of an intended fastener, as well as for any lighter duties where a punch might otherwise be considered, but the shape of the screwdriver blade is just better-suited, such as for the removal of brake caliper retainer plates. There is also a hex on the striking end of the screwdriver for adding a wrench to get that little something extra, when needed. Bottom line—it's a more versatile screwdriver that you can hammer on without guilt (or a lecture).

DEAD-BLOW HAMMER: When using a hammer, there are some situations—generally when working in tight quarters—where the hammer cannot deflect off the mark, or bounce back at you, without causing collateral damage to the part, tool, or even you (hey Einstein—how'd you get that bump on your forehead?). The Dead-Blow hammer is just the tool for such situations. For instance, it's just the thing to use when smacking a box wrench to loosen an oil drain plug (and sure beats bruising the palm of your hand), or assisting in the installation of a crankshaft Vibration Damper.

This "dead-blow" effect is achieved by filling the hollow head of the rubber/composite hammer with "shot" (small metal balls), making the hammer's head resistant to recoil or reflexive action (bounce-back). The composite outer covering is non-marring, which makes it perfect for straightening a dented transmission pan while it's off for filter service. There are a lot of different types of hammers, and it doesn't hurt to have a lot of them, including this one.

PARALELL JAW "NO-SLIP" PLIERS: There are also a lot of different types of pliers, and it doesn't hurt to have a lot of them, either. There are a number of designs for "no-slip" pliers, and you might even want to have a few of them, too. The idea behind the "no-slip" feature is that, when turned in one direction (pulled is recommended), the more force that is applied, the tighter the pliers grip the work. This is especially desirable when attempting to remove stripped fasteners, such as drain plugs, broken studs, or stripped line fittings that must be loosened and removed at all costs. These pliers are often the last (sane and inexpensive) line of defense against "dead-in-the-water syndrome."

SMALL HOSE REMOVAL PLIERS: This variation on the long needle-nose pliers is perfect for removing small-diameter hoses in tight quarters, such as coolant bypass and fuel-delivery and return hoses, and where the hose is not going to be reused. Side-to-side twisting breaks the hose loose from the fitting, facilitating easy removal. They are also handy for removing sockets that have separated from extensions and have stayed with the fastener, or for retrieving any stray cylindrical objects.

OPEN-END "RATCHETING" BOX WRENCH: What, a contradiction in terms, you say? If it's a ratcheting box wrench, then it can't be an open-end wrench at the same end, can it? Well, yes it can! Have you've ever had to remove and install a fuel filter, brake master cylinder, or power steering hose; and, after breaking the line fitting loose, could not "finger-loosen" the fitting nut due to it being in a slight bind?

Maybe you used an open-end wrench, possibly having to take little "bites" at a time, flipping the wrench over with each turn. Tedious and time consuming, yes? Well, with this tool, you just open up the spring-loaded half of the "box," close it over the line, and slip it over the fitting. Then, depending on which way the wrench is facing, you'll be able to turn the fitting in one direction, and it will "ratchet" in the other—all without removing the wrench from the fitting! You'll still have to break the fitting loose with a proper line wrench or socket, as the "trick" wrench is not for that purpose. But what it does can be well worth the cost.

So, there you have it—variations on ordinary hand tools that do extraordinary things, for a mere pittance, especially when you consider the irksome alternatives (like losing your kingdom).