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Body Lifts for Trucks & SUVs
The cheap way to fit larger tires
Created by Tom MorrBigger always seems to be better. Truck and SUV owners in particular seem to like their vehicles to ride higher than stock. The most affordable way to do this is with a body lift, which raises the cab and bed off the vehicle's frame. As a result, the wheelwheels go up, and taller tires can be fitted.
DIY
Body lifts are simple when compared to suspension lifts, which vary in complexity based on the style of springs and other components in the system. They're also a lot less expensive: A basic body-lift kit consists of spacers (often made of urethane or hardened nylon) and the hardware necessary to extend such items as the steering column and parking-brake cable. More-expensive kits might include brackets that also raise the bumpers and even flaps that cover the post-lift gap between the frame and body.
Actual body-lifting can often be accomplished in a day by a pair of average weekend-warrior mechanics. Details such as bumper remounting/alignment might require additional time based on the model of truck and height of the lift. (Lift kits are typically available in 1-, 2-, and 3-inch heights.) For example, newer trucks have several ground wires that run between the body and frame, some or all of which must be extended or relocated depending on vehicle and model year.
Considerations
Before buying a body-lift kit, read the various manufacturers' catalogs or web sites for installation notes that apply to your vehicle. Every component that attaches to both the frame and body might be affected by a body lift. Here are just a few of the details that might need to be addressed:
> The fuel filler neck might need to be extended to reach the gas tank.
> Transmission and transfer-case shift linkages might need to be extended or relocated.
> The steering shaft will often have to be extended with a piece in the body-lift kit or even replaced with a longer aftermarket shaft. Also, the steering-column mount might need to be modified.
> Bumpers look awkward hung low below the body. Rubber or vinyl flaps that hide the gaps are one solution, but remounting the bumpers higher by modifying the stock brackets or using custom pieces looks better. Also, the bumpers and frame might need to be notched to reattach everything higher up.
> Body lifts might render receiver hitches ineffective.
> Other components that may need to be lowered or relocated include the fan shroud, fan, transmission cooler, radiator and lower radiator hose.
Installation
> Thoroughly read the body-lift kit's instruction and also have a service manual for reference.
> Disconnect the battery and disable the airbags (if equipped), following the recommended procedure.
> Detach all lines, cables and wires that run between the body and frame as necessary. This might include all ground wires, transmission and fuel lines and parking-brake cable.
> In addition to hand tools, the job requires floor jack(s), wood blocks, a drill and possibly a metal-cutting tool such as a reciprocating saw or acetylene torch.
Results
Using a quality aftermarket body-lift kit is a relatively simple way to accommodate taller tires. In fact, it's one way to give a two-wheel-drive vehicle the look of a 4x4 but at a fraction of the price. The accompanying Steps show installation highlights on a current-generation Chevy K1500 4x4. This 3-inch body lift, which included raising the bumpers, could conceivably be done in a long day, but we set aside a weekend and took our time.
Step 1
First, measure the gap between the bed and cab on both sides. Then remove the rear bumper, hitch (if equipped) and all through-bolts between the box and frame. Use a floor jack and wood block(s) to raise one side of the bed, positioning the wood on one of the reinforcement ribs.
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Step 2
Carefully insert the kit's body spacers between the frame mounts and bed holes on both sides. Thread all bolts loosely, recheck gap measurements and square the bed as necessary. Remove bolts one at a time, apply thread-locking compound and install them to factory torque spec.
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Step 3
Detail items on this application include raising and reattaching the spare-tire winch tube.
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Step 4
This kit included gold-anodized bumper-relocation brackets. They replace the factory rear bumper brackets, then the bumper assembly slides into the framehorns. Align the bumper with the body, then tighten all of the fasteners.
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Step 5
Here's a visual comparison between the 3-inch-lifted bed and stock-height cab.
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Step 6
Lifting the cab can involve removing the front bumper and intake ducting. Other items that might need to be unfastened include the fan shroud, auto-trans cooler, parking-brake adjuster, all fuel lines and wiring looms that run along the frame and the firewall groundstrap.
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Step 7
The cab is lifted the same way as the bed: jacking one side at a time, inserting the kit's spacers, threading the bolts, squaring the body, then securing all fasteners.
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Step 8
Here's how the cab looks after spacers are inserted in the first side. Some of the parts that must be removed are visible in the bed.
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Step 9
This kit includes a parking-brake relocation bracket. It attaches to a body mount by drilling two holes. Those two loose ground wires bolt to the bracket's top hole.
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Step 10
This kit comes with an extension piece so that the steering column will span the increased distance between the firewall and frame-mounted steering box. The groundstrap extension is also visible.
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