Valvoline.com

Media Gallery | International Sites | FAQs | My Subscriptions
  • Products
  • Service Centers
  • Car Care
  • Racing
  • Heritage
  • Trade Partners
  • Our Business

Car Care

  • Automotive System
    • Automotive Topics
      • Routine Maintenance & Repair
        • Preventive Maintenance
        • Troubleshooting & Repair
        • How It Works
      • Performance
        • High Mileage Car Care
          • Restoration
            • Safety
              • Vehicle Ownership
                • Interior/ Exterior
                  • ASE
                  • Motor Oil Myths
                    Valvoline / Car Care / Automotive Topics / Routine Maintenance & Repair / How It Works / Do-It-Yourself Bedliner
                    Bookmark and Share

                    Do-It-Yourself Bedliner

                    Roll your own and save

                    Created by Tom Morr

                    Everyone who uses their pickup bed realizes the value of protecting the box against dings. For years, the only solutions were drop-in plastic bedliners or cut-your-own rubberized mats. The main drawback to plastic liners is that they trap moisture, which encourages rust. Mat-style liners protect the floor, but don't do much for the sides.

                    Commercial Use

                    Spray-in polyurethane liners revolutionized bed protection. Developed for the South African mining industry, these liners appeared in the U.S. in the mid-'80s. Bed abrasion- and rust-resistance were suddenly realities. However, the cost of these professionally applied coatings was prohibitive for many average truck owners.

                    The next evolution in bed protection is do-it-yourself polyurethane liners. On the market now for over five years, these systems allow the truck owner to apply the protective coating at home. The savings are substantial when compared to commercially applied polyurethane liners.

                    Herculiner is one of the best-known brands of DIY bed protection. The Herculiner chemical consists of polyurethane with rubber granules that form a skid-resistant, rust-inhibiting coating. The product comes in kit form and can either be painted on or sprayed with a gun. The polyurethane chemical is formulated to resist chipping, flaking, peeling, UV rays, gasoline and other solvents. Because Herculiner sticks to itself, any nicks and dings can be repaired later.

                    The basic kit includes application tools and a gallon of polyurethane material, enough to cover a 6-foot bed or a 55-60 square-foot flat area at a thickness of 1/16-1/32 of an inch. Available colors are black, white, red and gray.

                    Other Uses

                    Although spray-on bedliners are primarily marketed for pickup beds, they also stick to other painted or primed metals, concrete, wood, rubber, most plastics and fiberglass. Surface preparation varies depending on the material, but this polyurethane coating can protect everything from trailers to boat decks to walkways.

                    Bed Prep

                    Spray-on bedliners bond to clean, thoroughly dried surfaces. Preparation is the most critical and time-consuming part of the job. After blowing or hosing out debris, the bed should be washed with trisodium phosphate (TSP). When dry, the area needs to be scuffed with the kit's abrasive pad, then blown out. Next, wipe down the bed with xylene, acetone or MEK. Finally, mask off the bed's perimeter.

                    Application

                    Most spray-on bedliners emit nasty fumes, so they need to be applied in a well-ventilated area at a temperature somewhere between 32 degrees and 95 degrees F. The coating can either be applied with a brush and roller or shot with a spray gun. The polyurethane chemical can be thinned as much as 10 percent with xylene, which is available at commercial house-paint suppliers.

                    First, stir the chemical with an electrical drill and mixer attachment to suspend the rubber particles; re-stir periodically to keep the rubber from settling. Begin applying the product with a brush, dabbing the material into seams and other tight areas—similar to cutting in corners when wall painting. The entire bed can be brushed using a one-way motion, but this will yield a smoother texture than a stipple roller. Either way, a light first coat is applied. Throughout, watch for clumps, runs and pools, none of which provide the proper results.

                    When the first coat is touch-dry (1-4 hours or even more depending on temperature and humidity), apply a second coat within 24 hours of the first (or else the bed will need to be clean and re-scuffed). Then remove the masking tape immediately. Touch up any missed spots once the second coat is dry. Then discard the unused portion because it begins to cure as soon as the can is opened. The bed can withstand light use in 6-12 hours and is fully cured in 2-4 days.

                    Maintenance

                    Do-it-yourself bedliners can be cleaned with household cleaners and a hard-bristled brush. Once rinsed, the bed should be dried. Protectants will maintain a glossy finish.

                    Step 1

                    The Herculiner kit includes one gallon of polyurethane coating, two rollers, a roller handle, a scuff pad, a can opener, a 2-inch brush and multi-lingual application instructions.

                    Page 1 of 14

                    Next

                    Step 2

                    The job also requires TSP, xylene (or acetone or MEK if xylene can't be found), 2-inch-wide masking tape, a roller pan, chemical-resistant rubber gloves and clean-up rags (not shown).

                    Page 2 of 14

                    Previous Next

                    Step 3

                    Sweep out all dirt and debris.

                    Page 3 of 14

                    Previous Next

                    Step 4

                    Surface rust should be taken down to bare metal. Here are some tools that aid in rust removal.

                    Page 4 of 14

                    Previous Next

                    Step 5

                    If bed prep and application aren't happening on the same day, spot-prime bare metal with a non-lacquer primer to discourage rust.

                    Page 5 of 14

                    Previous Next

                    Step 6

                    Heavy rust should be stabilized so it won't continue to grow under the bedliner.

                    Page 6 of 14

                    Previous Next

                    Step 7

                    Because the rust stabilizer must be top-coated, we decided to shoot the whole bed with a coat of non-lacquer primer. The tailgate has been removed.

                    Page 7 of 14

                    Previous Next

                    Step 8

                    With the bed swept or blown, wash it down with TSP, then rinse thoroughly.

                    Page 8 of 14

                    Previous Next

                    Step 9

                    Once the bed has dried from the TSP, scuff all glossy surfaces (or, better yet, the whole bed) with the kit's pad, blow out the tailings, then wipe everything down with xylene, acetone or MEK.

                    Page 9 of 14

                    Previous Next

                    Step 10

                    Mask the bed and tailgate's perimeters, remove any hardware that might need to be replaced later, and plug bolt holes with tape.

                    Page 10 of 14

                    Previous Next

                    Step 11

                    After stirring the formula with a drill and mixing attachment (a wooden stir-stick will likely break) to dredge up the rubber crumbs into the polyurethane goop, dab the material into seams and tight spots with the kit's brush. Spread any clumps and runs.

                    Page 11 of 14

                    Previous Next

                    Step 12

                    Using the kit's foam stipple roller, gently apply a light first coat to the bed's sides; don't worry if the bed's paint bleeds through this coat.

                    Page 12 of 14

                    Previous Next

                    Step 13

                    Roll the bed and tailgate likewise. Constantly stir the mixture to keep the rubber particles from settling on the bottom of the can, and store the brush and roller in plastic bags or xylene while the first coat dries. Once the first coat is touch-dry, apply the second in the opposite direction for good coverage.

                    Page 13 of 14

                    Previous Next

                    Step 14

                    Here's a detailed look and the skid- and rust-resistant bedliner.

                    Page 14 of 14

                    Previous
                    100 Years Under the Hood™

                    Valvoline Instant Oil Change | Eagle One | Ashland | Contact Us | Site Map | Privacy Policy | Oil Recycling | Car Brite
                    © 2001 - 2009 Ashland Inc.