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Bracket-Racer Frontend Upgrade
Performance bushings keep musclecars on the straight & narrow
Created by Wayne ScrabaOwners of the current-generation Camaros/Firebirds know that these vehicles are corner-burners par excellence. But for those whose passions lean toward the straight and narrow, we researched how to make an F-car hook up better using aftermarket front bushings.
Straighten Up, Fly Right
The average street-strip enthusiast can do this upgrade. Best of all, the results are perfectly streetable. (However, the car might be a bit on the noisy side, and it certainly doesn't like corners as much as the stock system.)
In 1993-2002 Camaros/Firebirds, the factory control-arm bushings really aren't serviceable. GM chooses to sell you replacement control arms along with the bushings. However, performance polyurethane-bushing manufacturers offer replacement kits. Check out the Steps in the photo gallery to see how it all goes together.
Step 1
Properly support the car and remove the control arms. Remove the inner sleeves and rubber bushings from the upper control arms. Warm the outside of the bushing shell with a propane torch and tap out the rubber bushings with a hammer. Don't remove the shells from the control arms. You'll need to reuse them with the aftermarket bushings.
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Step 2
Carefully clean the inside of the control arm bushing shell. No old bushing material must remain inside the sleeve. We found that the best way to achieve this is by using a rag dipped in carb cleaner. Rubber that's persistent might have to be sanded out. (This stuff can be pretty stubborn.)
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Step 3
With the grease supplied in the bushing kit, lube all bushing surfaces that contact metal. This means both the outer surface of the bushing shell as well as the hole walls that hold the metal inner sleeves. If in doubt, lube it anyway. This step is crucial.
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Step 4
Install the new bushings into the control arm (inside the OEM shell) from the outside ends of the control arms. The bushings (and shells) are "stepped," which means the bushings can only be installed one way. Re-use the original bushing bolts and nuts. If you don't need the car for a few days, get the fasteners cadmium plated.
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Step 5
Reinstall the upper control arm to the shock bracket (which fits up inside the inner wheel well). GM's suggested torque specs for the upper control-arm nuts is 72 lb.-ft. The upper shock-stud nuts (two of them) must be torqued to 32 lb.-ft. while the upper shock bolts (another two) must be torqued to 32 lb.-ft.
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Step 6
The lower control-arm bushings are removed and installed in a similar fashion, but there are some subtle differences. First, tap out the washers from the end of the sleeves. This is accomplished by using a long punch and a hammer. Once the washers are out, don't discard them; they'll be reused later.
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Step 7
Remove the inner sleeves from both the horizontal (front) position and the rear (vertical) position. Applying a bit of heat to the inside of the sleeve can speed up the sleeve-removal process. This breaks the bond between the rubber bushing material and the inner sleeve. Careful, though! Too much heat and you'll have a molten mess on your hands.
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Step 8
The complete bushing and shell must be removed from the vertical (rear) position only. We did this by placing the control arm on a couple of 4x4 blocks, then driving the shell and bushing out with a heavy hammer. Be very careful not to damage the inside diameter of the control arm when removing the shell.
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Step 9
The front (horizontal) position is serviced by removing the rubber bushing material only. (Remember, the inner sleeve has already been removed.) To loosen the rubber material, slightly heat the outside of the shell. When the rubber bond breaks, drive the bushing material out with a hammer.
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Step 10
Repeat the cleaning process on the inside surfaces of the control arm. No old bushing material must remain inside the shell. Carb cleaner and/or sandpaper are the only ways to remove the old material. Similarly, clean the bushing sleeves along with the washers. No old bushing material can remain on these pieces either.
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Step 11
We assembled the horizontal (front) position first. Coat all surfaces of the bushing that contacts metal with the grease supplied in the kit. Reuse the stock washers and inner sleeve and assemble with the aftermarket bushings. Lightly tap the bushings in with a hammer and you're almost done.
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Step 12
The vertical (rear) position is the last to receive fresh bushings. Coat all surfaces which contact metal with grease. Determine which bushing half goes on the bottom. Before assembling the top section, install the "donut" inside the control arm. Next, install the top bushing half along with the OEM inner sleeve and washers.
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Step 13
Time to reinstall the control arm. The fasteners that attach the control arm to the front crossmember must be torqued to spec. GM calls for 144 lb.-ft. of torque on the front (vertical) fastener and 96 lb.-ft. for the rear (horizontal) fastener. Reinstall the shocks and steering knuckle. Have the wheels aligned and you're done.
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