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From Storage to the Street

Getting a neglected vehicle ready for the road

If Indiana Jones were a car guy, his idea of lost treasure might have been automotive artifacts instead of the lost ark. Even though "Raiders of the Old Car Barn" may not have quite the same ring to it, there is a bit of adventure and resourcefulness required when working on a rusty antique. Where do you begin on such an expedition, and what sorts of dangers lurk in the shadows? Well, the greatest risks you're likely to find are a nest of mice in the tattered upholstery or an exhaust belching black smoke. As for what to do first, the steps to follow are fairly straightforward.

Fluids First

Before you do anything, check the crankcase oil, and examine the condition of the coolant and fluids for the power steering, brake system and automatic transmission (or gear oil if there's a manual tranny). Those liquids are the telltale indications of how the vehicle has been treated. Assuming the block isn't frozen from disuse or rust, start by draining and replacing the engine oil and filter. (You can freshen the other fluids after you're sure the engine will turn over and doesn't need to be replaced.)

When an engine has been sitting for a time, the internals become dry and need lubrication. Spray penetrating oil into the spark plug holes, and let things sit overnight. In the meantime, inspect the hoses and belts to see if they will last long enough for a brief startup (you can replace them later).

Prime Time

The next step is to pre-lube or prime the engine without actually firing it up (otherwise you'll score the inside and damage the bearings). Disconnect the coil wire or remove the spark plugs and turn the crank manually. You can also use a drill with a shaft extension to manually operate the oil pump. On a Chevy 350 (or other pushrod engines), if you want to be really thorough, pull the valve covers, so you can check to see oil squirting through the top of the pushrods. Once you've determined that the block isn't seized up from rust, install a fresh battery, along with a new distributor cap, rotor, points, condenser and spark plug wires.

If the fuel system is gummed up, you'll need to drain the gas tank, blow out the lines and replace the filter. Check the carburetor's accelerator pump for wear, and also the needle and seat valves to make sure they're not stuck open. On a newer, fuel-injected car, you may need to replace the injectors or clean them with solvent.

Start-Up

You're now ready to pluck the golden statue from its pedestal. When you turn the key and the engine coughs to life, don't rev it right away. Allow it to idle at less than 2,000 rpm for at least 10 minutes (if it makes any really strange noises, shut it down right away). As it begins to warm up, take off the radiator cap and look inside to see if the water is flowing smoothly, so you know the water pump is functioning and the thermostat isn't stuck in the closed position. (Also, the radiator core may require cleaning or replacement.) Nudge the throttle up a little at a time, while listening for valve tapping, clattering or other warning signs.

Even if all goes well, don't head out on the road just yet. Before engaging the transmission, first check that the brakes are in working order. (Wheel cylinders on older cars tend to leak, you may need replace rusted parts and pads or shoes.) Once you're satisfied that it's safe to drive, take your automotive artifact out for a gentle spin. Just watch out for trap doors and that big boulder closing in behind you.

Resource

Shaver Automotive Restoration, 1942 W. Artesia Blvd., Torrance, CA 90504, 310/532-0668