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Hatchback Rattle Repair

Fixing a little thing time won't forget

As your ride ages, small things wear out and generate far more angst than their worth should justify. As the owner of an oft-driven '92 Mustang GT that has seen more than 150,000 ticks on the clock, I can attest to the general deterioration of the little things that must be kept up with. There is a part named Steve, which will wear out on the Fox-body Mustang. It is the hatchback receiver post (called striker assembly PN F1ZZ-61404A42-A on our 'Stang) which is engaged by the lock mechanism mounted on the hatch lid itself. If this glorified bolt becomes maladjusted or defective, the hatch may not close properly.

70-Pound Prater

Lots of hatchback Mustangs were built between 1979 and 1993. That third door weighs SEVENTY pounds. That's six 12" subwoofers, 140 National Geographics or almost two whole T5 transmissions (lift with your legs, folks)—a lot of mass to hold in place. Point is, that big thing will eventually wear out its mounts and become loose—thus our rattle.

Fellow hatchbackians, unless your fingers are holding cotton and earmuffs and a 28-piece symphony to your ears, you know the sound. Roughly akin to a squeak, thump and metallic rattle altogether; it announces itself on bumpy concrete, expansion joints, driveway aprons, rumble strips, etc. This cacophony means to drive you mad, so call us Prozac. Below is a fix that applies to lots of hatchback-equipped vehicles, including the dreaded GM F-body, and you can trade in an easy afternoon wrenching for long-term mental satisfaction. Of course, our instructions are Fox-body specific, but the gist is clear—small fixes reap big relief.

Feeling Groovy?

Step 1—For all the access you need, remove the plastic interior piece (Phillips-head screws the lot of 'em) that partially conceals our part, Steve. Unplug the access light. Examine Steve. Is there a groove worn in its plastic surface? Run your fingers around Steve to check. If there's no groove or ridge and Steve's plastic is quality, obtain the tool in Step 3 and proceed to Step 4.

Step 2—See Steve. See Steve old. See Steve new. Note old Steve's groove (arrow). Groove bad. The hatch lock's trip latch has a specific-dimension hole. Take a look. A worn down Steve will be too loose. That's the root of our problem.

Trick Tip

Step 3—If there is damage to Steve, remove it like you would a bolt from a fixed nut. The bracket behind the interior steel might or might not be secured by two other bolts (note arrows) dependent on your Mustang's vintage. We'll deal with them later. Secret Tip #667: Lisle Corp. Torx bit T45, available from your local Sears Craftsman supplier. This is the EXACT size you'll need to fit Steve. Pliers need not apply. Use a Sharpie to outline old pin location.

Step 4—Now Big Fun. To replace old Steve with new or adjust the reformed old Steve, loosen all bolts (one, two or three of them). Find the approximate locale of old Steve and center new/reformed Steve there. Tighten one/three bolts, close hatch and drive over some bumps. Still a rattle? Open hatch, lower Steve a millimeter or two, close hatch, rinse, lather and repeat as necessary. Don't be afraid to adjust the bump stops on each hatch corner, too. Check each hatch corner for wear.

No Rattles

We want no rattles, but the hatch must operate easily—no binding lock when you turn the key and no bone-jarring slamming action to close the hatch. Also check the hatch when latched to be sure it's centered on the rear of the car. Once Steve is located and the hatch operates flawlessly, replace your interior—and find something else to fix.